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Aquaphobia and scuba diving

I will occasionally talk myself into doing things far beyond my comfort zone only to panic after I’ve reached the point of no return. This is how I ended up almost thirty feet below the surface of the Caribbean Sea, my lungs full of salty water, wondering how – or if – I was going to get out of this one alive.

I have never had a comfortable relationship with water, and, at some points, I have believed that water was actively trying to kill me. This belief was only strengthened by two disastrous snorkeling attempts in Mexico.

The phrase “scuba diving” had always been enough to strike fear into my heart, but, when my boyfriend suggested a “fun dive” while we were vacationing in Thailand, I agreed. We had been backpacking, having adventures, for several weeks at that point, and I felt invincible. Adrenaline carried me through the dive, and for the first time in my life, I had a truce (albeit an uneasy one) with water.

I had justified the dive as a once-in-a-lifetime adventure, but, less than two years later, my boyfriend suggested we get our open water certification. This seemed reasonable when he suggested it from the safety of our apartment in Brooklyn, but, once we were in a dive shop in Honduras, it hit me: I had just paid a substantial amount of money to engage in a very serious and potentially deadly activity underwater.

In order to get our certification, we had to complete “skills.” Without question, the worst skill was removing the mask completely underwater and then replacing it again. When we had to perform the skill in open water, I hurried through, pulse pounding. I thought I had successfully cleared my mask, but, when I inadvertently inhaled through my nose, my nasal passages were infiltrated by salt water. Surprised, I coughed, spitting out my regulator.

Before I realized what was happening, I had inhaled and filled with lungs with water. Desperately, I gasped for air, but, of course, there was none. In my panic, I couldn’t remember how to find my regulator. This is what it feels like to drown, I thought. I turned toward the surface and prepared to swim for it, knowing it was dangerous to ascend without properly equalizing but not knowing what else to do.

Thankfully, Alex, our instructor, returned my regulator to my mouth and cleared it. Water was still in my mouth and my lungs, but at least I could breathe. Alex led us to the surface, and I ferociously coughed the remainder of water from my lungs.

I knew that if I didn’t complete the dive, we wouldn’t get our certification. Bad weather had disrupted our certification schedule, and we only had that afternoon to complete two dives. I had come so far by this point; I couldn’t leave in failure. We returned to the water to complete the dive, which thankfully had no more skills.

There was one more dive and one more mask removal to complete before we got our certification. I proceeded through as methodically as possible, repeating the steps in my head as a desperate attempt to drown out the voice of panic. After a seeming eternity of exhaling and repeating, Alex tapped me on the shoulder. I opened my eyes. My mask was clear. I had done it. We had completed our certification. We proceeded triumphantly to the surface.

My certification photo is ridiculous – soaking wet, mascara running, wrapped in a beach towel, and grinning the cheesiest smile ever while someone holds a towel behind my head as a make-shift backdrop – but it’s also one of my favorites because it represents the day that I finally conquered my fear of water.

Monkey philosophy

My six-year-old daughter has a bit of the philosopher in her. She asks a lot of questions. Often it’s the same question multiple times, as if asking it will make her desired outcome happen faster.

On a fifteen-minute walk to a friend’s house for a play date, five minutes into the journey she asked, “Mommy, are we there yet?”

“No … you know where we are.”

A minute of quiet walking, then: “Mommy, are we there yet?”

“Monkey, you just asked me that a minute ago. Do you see where we are?”

“Yes.”

“Are we there yet?”

“No.”

Ninety seconds go by.

Monkey, whining: “MOMMEEE, are we there yet? My feet hurt.”

Me, trying a new approach: “Yep. We’re there.”

Silence.

Monkey, smiling: “No, we’re not!

Me: “We’re not? You’re kidding! Uh oh! Where are we then?”

Sometimes the questions are about bigger topics, like the one I got yesterday after we chatted about her six-week-old cousin: “Mommy, how does the mommy get the baby out?”

“Well, the mommy goes into labor. Labor means ‘work.’ Getting the baby out is hard work. Here, put on your socks, we have to go.”

The questions these days are more about the physical world, but two years ago when she was four, I was already getting the metaphysical questions. One night she asked me what God looked like while I was flossing her teeth. “That’s a very good question, Monkey. It’s hard to say exactly what God looks like because you might say God is everywhere.” She looked uncertain, either because of my vague explanation, or her anticipation of her least favorite part of the nightly flossing routine. I went for those two tricky back teeth in the upper right of her mouth. “Although some people imagine God as a man with a flowing white robe and long white hair and a beard,” I offered, pulling out the floss with a pop, as Monkey winced. She smacked her lips, happy to be done.

“A man with a white robe and long hair and a beard?” she giggled, not sure if I was kidding.

Later that night, I gave Monkey a big, squeezy hug as I tucked her in bed. “No matter how old you are, you’ll always be my baby!”

“Even when I’m old?”
 she asked.

“Even when you’re old.”

“Even when I’m fifty?”

“Even then, when I’m eighty-eight.” 

I thought of my own mother, whose age remains highly classified and who has always had the ability to reduce me emotionally to a cranky fifteen-year-old no matter how old I am.

“Eighty-eight? That’s SUPER old!” Monkey gazed at me lovingly, stroking my cheek with her hand. Her face then grew somber, and she innocently ambushed me.

“Mommy, what if you die? How am I going to find food by myself? How will I know what to do?”

My heart skipped a beat in my rib cage. “Oh Monkey … you will know how to take care of yourself long before I die. I promise.”

“I hope we die together—I want to be right next to you. Will we be together when we die?”

The nightlight blurred.

Suddenly, I squeezed her again, even tighter. I forced myself to breathe deeply in order to respond with a steady voice. “Monkey, no matter what happens, we will be together, always.”

“That makes me happy, Mommy.”

I released my hold on her and stroked her hair. “Me too, Monkey.”

*
We’re now two blocks from the play date.

“Mommy … are we there yet?

“Almost!” I declare, triumphant.

Old Photographs

A large hatbox, tattered and patterned in flowers, sits on a shelf behind a wall where we store things. Today is the day I decide to throw it out, move its contents, old photographs, to a sturdier box.

I take a handful at a time, determined not to be sidetracked by curiosity, almost reflexive in the way it directs me to stop and peruse.  Memory is jarred, the recognition of faces that play tricks with time in revealing younger selves poised and posed.  It takes a certain patience to label and organize photos. The ones still in envelopes from the photo lab where they were sent to be developed years and years ago, negatives intact, at least comprise a grouping that defines some event, the smiles and hugs and candid camera moments brought back in a flash, living color even if a bit faded.  The ones in a jumble, mostly old black and whites, some sepia, edges perforated, fascinate me most. They are the ones taken by my father, or my mother, or some aunt or uncle or friend of theirs, passed along, tossed into the box, proof of those moments dimmed by time and the crush of memories. If I look closely, I may recognize a face, marvel that I can dwell on a scene from a past that belongs to me, in a way, even if I never had any part in it.  Feel a certain sadness at the simple truth it reveals: without my father, or my mother, or an aunt or uncle or friend of theirs, I am no more than a stranger to the story revealed in the photograph. I can only imagine it, and I do that well.

Here’s one: my mother sits on a chaise, my father on another. She is smiling, almost laughing, happy. So is he. On the back of each photograph, in the clear slant of her handwriting,  are words that place the photographs in time and space. Miami Beach, Florida. Hotel Embassy. Nov. 27 to Dec. 11, 1948.  She has even taken the time to write an address – 30th St. and Collins Ave.  – and, for no other reason, I imagine, than to make the record complete, she has put her name (Florence) and his name (Larry) in the bottom-left corner of their corresponding photos. This would have been their honeymoon.  A year later, on December 12th, they would celebrate my birth. Many years later my mother would make a request, no more anniversary dinners, no more cards or gifts on Nov. 27th.  All the more reason I take a child’s pleasure, and a woman’s, in seeing them young and happy and vibrant, maybe even in love.

I place the photos back into the box, no idea what I’ll eventually do with them, struck by the unsettling reality that whatever sentimental value Florence and Larry on their honeymoon may have to me will be lost on my daughter, who barely knew them.  We all have our ways of cataloging our lives, reference points for some late-night reminiscing or the belief that a future generation will be glad for this glimpse of us, made easier, if less tangible, by the digital world.  Right now it’s easier for me to hedge, move the photos from box to box,  let time and circumstance play their part in determining which things demand being held onto and which beg to be let go.

Visit Deborah’s website here . . .

That TV Family Feeling

It was a bedtime story of my own making, better than counting sheep, an adolescent dream that magically transported me from the cramped Brooklyn apartment I called home to a southern California beach, right to the doorstep of the Nelson family.

That would be Ozzie and Harriet, David and Ricky, all-American TV at its best, even if a bit wholesome in retrospect. It was a reflection of a time (late Fifties/early Sixties). It was, in a way, the precursor to reality TV, the real Nelson family scripting itself into the TV Nelson family, even using exterior shots of their actual house for the show (the interior was an onset facsimile).  Who could have known that decades later would bring us into the living room of another Ozzy and his family, no hidden dysfunction here, everything off-the-cuff in the WYSIWYG, wacky world of the Osbournes?

Even if there was nothing terribly adventurous about “The Adventures of Ozzie and Harriet,” I was hooked on it, partly for the escape from family as I knew it to family that seemed too good to be fabricated, but mostly for that heartthrob, Ricky, who had a way of curling his lip that would make me melt. Never mind the searing eyes.  David, the big brother, smart and grounded, would be my big brother, too.

Now David is dead, the last of the Nelsons to go. The day Ricky was killed in a plane crash – December 31, 1985 – I had long since stopped following his career, but all it took was hearing the first notes of “Lonesome Town” or “Travelin’ Man,” “Dream Lover” or “Poor Little Fool” to remind me that memory has a way of pocketing itself, a slice of comfort pulled from a voice, a song. Once a fan, always a fan.  I was weeks into a pregnancy at the time of his death, a new family in the making, no mistaking it for a scripted one that could not possibly live up to anyone’s sense of the ideal. No matter; before long my daughter would have her own favorite TV shows (and rock stars) giving rise to her own fantasies and dreams with, perhaps, the added irony of her career taking her behind-the-scenes on some of TV’s top reality shows.

In the wake of Ricky’s death came the airing of some dirty family laundry, Kris (ex-wife of Ricky, sister of Mark Harmon) threatened to sue over his life insurance and tried to take control of his estate away from David. Needless to say, the big brother won.  It was the big brother, too, who had said, in a 1971 Esquire interview, quoted in the New York Times, “It’s an awfully big load to carry, to be everyone’s fantasy family.”  To which I would add some down-home wisdom, his brother’s, words from a song written in response to ill-behaved fans wanting the old Ricky, not the new Rick: You can’t please everyone/so you’ve got to please yourself. Ironic that “Garden Party” would become a hit, and, to my thinking, a song that speaks to something gone with a catchy anthem phrase ushering in a New Age.

Visit Deborah’s website here . . .

Skiing and cosmetics

Skiing and cosmetics are forever linked in my mind, so much so that, when some friends proposed a ski trip to Vermont this winter, my instinct was to check my make-up in a mirror. It may seem a bit odd, but the truth of the matter is that I learned to wear make-up because of skiing – and not because I thought that it would protect my face from windburn.

When I was in junior high, I went on a community ski trip to a resort a couple of hours away. At this point, I should probably mention that I didn’t grow up in Vermont or Colorado or any other state notable for skiing. I grew up in Illinois, a state associated much more strongly with flat plains than anything resembling a mountain. The terrain does get a bit hilly in the southern most part of the state, but I am from central Illinois, where the land is as flat as can be.

This was the second year that I had been on the ski trip to a small resort with a smattering of modest slopes and a dusting of man-made snow. I found it wildly exciting, and I was feeling confident in my skiing capabilities. I had made it off the bunny slope the previous year!  I imagined myself practically an expert. I eagerly strapped on my rented boots and skis, and I headed out the lodge door.

That was when I fell off the cliff.

It’s something a misnomer to call it a cliff, but that’s certainly what it seemed to be. There was a significant drop-off just mere yards away from the lodge door, something that everyone else had managed to avoid, but that I, an overly excited and slightly clumsy thirteen-year-old tripped right over. Apparently my tumble over the edge was rather spectacular, but I don’t remember any of it.  I knocked myself completely out, thankfully unaware of the resulting toboggan rescue by the resort staff. I was relegated to the infirmary for the remainder of the day, where I watched a tiny black and white television while all my friends skied.

I returned home with a face that was half black-and-blue, and the bruise looked angrier the next morning. The discoloration was impossible not to notice, and so my mother bought me my first tube of concealer to mitigate the damage. I doctored my face with it for weeks, and, when the bruise was finally gone, I had grown used to putting on make-up. Although I can put on my cosmetics every day without thinking about skiing, whenever I think about skiing, I inevitably think about make-up.

Yesterday

Oprah and Sir Paul McCartney, Bill T. Jones and Jerry Herman, Merle Haggard. Sitting in a box at the Kennedy Center’s Opera House, this year’s honorees for a lifetime of artistic achievement.

I admit it – it’s a cheap thrill, the annual broadcasting of artists being honored and their celebrity/artist friends paying tribute, sometimes with wit, always with admiration.  And the timing is deliberate, the last week of the year, everything (except post-Christmas holiday sales) at a standstill, nothing but reruns and round-the-clock showings of It’s a Wonderful Life, days away from one year ending and another beginning.  It’s too easy to be cynical, call it politicking by another name, a subjective process at best. In theory, though, the Kennedy Center Honors are not a competition on the order of the Oscars and Tonys, Emmys and National Book Awards.  There is no short list and ‘best of’.’  Yes, an argument can always be made for talented and hard-working artists so under the radar there are not enough members on a nomination/selection committee to muster interest. And, yes, there are staged moments and predictable punch lines, Chris Rock looking up at the honorees, one in particular, “the most powerful person in the world,” he says with that winning smile, “and sitting right next to her, Barack Obama.”  But at the heart of it all, it’s one night when we all learn something about the artists we know and admire as well as the ones we know less about. We get to acknowledge – as collectively as possible – the ways in which art enriches our lives.

Most years I watch, sometimes I don’t. Something about this year’s ceremony struck a chord. It wasn’t just Jennifer Hudson, joined by the Tennessee State University Choir, in a heartstring-tugging rendition of “I’m Here,” from The Color Purple; or Mavis Staples singing “Let It Be” with James Taylor; or Steven Tyler rocking the house with a medley from Abbey Road.  It was the recognition of art as a measure of passing time, McCartney with Lennon, and without him; Oprah, inimitable, one incarnation spiraling into the next; the brilliant Bill T. Jones, thankfully, still here to bring us Spring Awakening and Fela;  Jerry Herman, a reminder of Broadway at its best, tradition (Hello, Dolly) and innovation (La Cage Aux Folles) in one versatile individual; Merle Haggard, a very American legend. I say the word, ‘yesterday,’ a song pops into my head.  I catch a few lines from “Okie from Muskogee” or listen to the Grateful Dead cover of “Mama Tried,” I marvel at the transcendent power of music, hicks and hippies bringing their own to spin to the very same notes.

Even more poignant, perhaps: among the very first honorees, in 1978, was Marian Anderson, performing all over Europe but denied from performing at Constitution Hall because of her race. It took the intervention of Eleanor Roosevelt to make possible Anderson’s now famous 1939 Easter Sunday concert at the Lincoln Memorial, exquisitely brought to life in a novel by Richard Powers, The Time of Our Singing.

And just for fun:  Russian-born pianist Vladimir Horowitz was offered the honor but his conditions for acceptance made the center rescind: he would have to be the only honoree, and the ceremony would have to be at 4 p.m. on Sunday.

Photo is property of the author

Visit Deborah’s website here .

Thanksgiving with the penguins

The holidays – and Thanksgiving in particular – are rife with tradition.  Everything from the location of the fest to seating arrangements to who brings the pumpkin pie can be dictated by tradition.  Such holiday traditions can help create family memories, but sometimes those memories can be overwhelming, particularly when not everyone is around to share them.

My grandfather, a wonderful, intelligent, and humorous man, passed away in June 2009.  Thanksgiving that year was painful with his seat empty.  Christmas was no better, despite our attempts to break from tradition by serving steak instead of ham and eating off the good china instead of festive paper plates.  This Thanksgiving, we decided a change of scenery was in order.  My parents live in Illinois, and I live in New York, so we split the difference and gathered in Cincinnati, Ohio, where my brother currently lives.

While most families spent Thanksgiving Day watching sports and roasting turkeys, my family spent it at the Newport Aquarium.  We – along with a few other families – learned about strange little creatures called mudskippers, reached into water to pet swimming sharks, and sat mesmerized in front of the penguin enclosure.  We had a late lunch – so late partially because we couldn’t tear ourselves away from the waddling penguins, but primarily because we couldn’t find anywhere open on Thanksgiving Day.  We finally found a Steak ‘n Shake, which, if you’re not familiar, is a Midwestern diner-style chain restaurant.  I haven’t eaten in a Steak ‘n Shake in at least seven years, and lunch proved to be a perfect reminder of my past and home without miring us in tradition.

While other Americans sat down to a turkey dinner with stuffing and green bean casserole, we had reservations at a nice seafood restaurant overlooking the water.  Prosciutto-wrapped salmon with miso-maple glaze might not be say “Thanksgiving” to most, but no one could argue that it wasn’t delicious.  And who needs pumpkin pie when there’s chocolate lava cake?

Our celebration might not have fit the holiday mold, but it was exactly what we needed.  We spent time together as a family, and we gave thanks for each other instead of turkey.  Our Thanksgiving was not traditional, but it certainly was memorable – and wonderful.

Something out of nothing

Logo for Project bread

1997. I’d quit my job and couldn’t find a replacement. My new roommate, Shelley, just out of school, had landed an internship with Project Bread an organization that helps fight hunger in Massachusetts. Specifically, she was working on their annual “Walk for Hunger.” Shelley ended up becoming one of my best friends – I’d be a bridesmaid for her less than five years later – but back in 1997 we were just getting to know each other. We’d tell each other how our day went, watch TV, borrow each others books, commiserate about the walk to the laundromat, about what you’d expect.

A month and a half into her internship, Shelley asked if I would do her a favor. She said that she knew I liked to sleep in in the mornings (true) but that she needed to recruit people to come to a breakfast presentation about the Walk. Knowing I was living off my savings until gainfully employed again, she assured me that she didn’t expect me to give anything and also that there would be free food.

I had nothing to lose and free food to gain, so I agreed immediately. I sat at the intern’s table and listened to what the head honchos had to say. Now, almost 15 years out, I don’t remember the exact facts that were projected onto the screen. What I remember is that there were schools where over 70% of the students needed free hot lunches, but no one would take them because they were too embarrassed to be thought of as poor. What I remember is that things weren’t getting better for those we now call “food insecure” but were really just hungry. What I remember is that I was on the verge of tears when I told Shelley that I didn’t have any money I could give her, but that didn’t mean I couldn’t raise any. I said I would raise $1,000.

It was laughable. This was before Facebook, Twitter, or paypal. In fact, most adults I knew didn’t even use that new electronic mail that was all the craze. Still, I had given my word. I wrote a letter asking for money and sent it to every single one of my relatives and everyone I knew who had a job. I threw house parties where Shelley would give a shpiel and I would ask for donations. I asked my neighbors. I asked my pharmacist. I asked the dry cleaner down the block. In one memorable instance I accidentally bumped into someone’s cart at the grocery store, told him what I was doing and how important it was and he gave me $5. Normally shy, I felt angry and helpless. Malnourished children in the United States! In my own state, my own city. We were right on the edge of the 21st Century, too. There was no excuse for it.

The day of the Walk was hot, in the 90s with very unfriendly humidity. I rushed back from teaching religious school and went to turn in my money. With help from my grandparents and parents, siblings, friends and strangers, I had . . . failed to reach my goal.

I had raised $768.50. Still, while more is better than some, some is definitely better than none. Maybe it wasn’t four digits but it was a good haul from a jobless, unwealthy, shy, short 24 year old with glasses.

$1,000 is an arbitrary number, nice and round. The truth is that $231.50 more wouldn’t have eradicated hunger in Massachusetts or even just in Boston. And, as it turns out, they still accept money. After all, hunger has no deadline.

(Un)American Activities

A good friend of mine tells me she makes a point of going out for Indian food on Thanksgiving. It isn’t that she doesn’t like turkey (what’s there not to like?) or that Martha Stewart didn’t invite her; it’s all the fuss, the gathering, the food overload, with the underlying assumption that there’s something un-American about not partaking in the ordained celebration.

Let’s cut to the chase here: the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth Rock on December 11, 1620. It was a tough winter, but the 1621 harvest was something to be thankful for, so they celebrated for three days, harvest-style, with the natives who had helped them tough it out. Maybe it was venison (not turkey), and more likely it was boiled pumpkin (not pumpkin pie), that they feasted on. But another ‘thanksgiving’ was years in coming, June 1676, to be exact.  Fast forward to October 1777, harvest the convenient backdrop to politics, ‘thanksgiving’ a celebration of victory over the British at Saratoga.  Twelve years later, when our first (famous) president, decided maybe it was time to proclaim a National Day of Thanksgiving, not all the colonies  agreed (duh!) with him. So let’s give it up for Sarah Josepha Hale, who made a mission out of turning Thanksgiving into a national holiday. Hale, the first American woman to publish a novel, was a magazine editor, also the poet who gave us the nursery rhyme “Mary’s Lamb.”  Her dream became reality when that other famous president born in February proclaimed, in 1863, that the nation would celebrate a national day of Thanksgiving on the last Thursday of November.

The plot thickens:  in 1939 FDR (oh those iconic presidents!) moved Thanksgiving to the next-to-last Thursday in November, pressured by retailers lobbying for a longer Christmas shopping season.  That didn’t work out so well; a number of states refused to comply, so, until 1941, when Congress set the date in stone, there were two Thanksgivings, a week apart.

This historical context gives a reassuring, even if odd, spin on what I love most and least about Thanksgiving (i.e., a day commemorating a national mood of thanks that jump-starts a season of obsessive, market-driven giving). And here’s the irony, for me. My childhood memories of family feasts do not include Thanksgiving.  Maybe my mother just couldn’t fathom handling and roasting something that weighed as much as an infant (besides which, she didn’t especially like turkey). Or maybe Thanksgiving followed too closely on the heels of the Jewish New Year and, even for someone not orthodox in her observance or belief, there was something inescapably goyish (i.e., Puritan) about turkey day.   In fact, the first Thanksgiving I recall celebrating with my family was after my cousins and I had all left the fold and we took things into our own hands.  Let’s give our mothers a break – maybe even a treat – said the cousin who did all the organizing in bringing us together for a proper Thanksgiving.  We drank very fine red wine, we smoked pot (a ‘modern family’ way before it became a hit show). The cousin responsible for roasting the big bird is a chef extraordinaire, and, even under the influence of weed, he could not screw up.

Thanksgiving would thereafter become a celebration of friends who were like family, pulled together by my dear friend Cynthia until we began alternating the year I moved into a house recently renovated and crying out for a crowd. Traditions evolve, even if the sentiment behind them stays the same. The year Cynthia died it was Thanksgiving (almost) as usual chez moi. The rest, as the saying goes, is history. Visit Deborah Batterman’s website/blog here.


Phobias in the crown of the statue

On paper, a visit to the Statue of Liberty’s crown has a lot going for it: the thrill of being inside one of the most recognizable monuments in the world, the unobstructed views of New York Harbor and the Manhattan skyline, and even the exclusivity factor, as a relatively small number of people get to climb into the crown. Only 240 tickets are available each day – compared to the thousands of people who visit the island each day – and those tickets sell out months in advance.

When my boyfriend and I began to plan our visit to the crown in late July, the first time that two tickets were available on the weekend was November. In the midst of our debate over whether to select morning or afternoon tickets, we happened to click back to the July calendar and saw, much to our surprise, that two tickets were suddenly available for that afternoon. We snapped them up and hurried out the door.

We soon found ourselves beginning the climb in the base of the monument. I was so excited and nervous that I almost felt sick. I knew that we were lucky to have the tickets, but a part of me worried that I would freak out. The website had warned that the climb was not for the acrophobic or claustrophobic; I am both. I am also, however, determined, and I wanted to get to the top.

The first sets of stairs were unremarkable; it wasn’t until we reached a landing and were ushered behind a literal velvet rope that my heart dropped. The next set of stairs was a narrow spiral staircase that shot straight up through the body of the statue. It was the stuff my nightmares are made of. It was steep and it was narrow, and it took every single last modicum of my energy to focus on putting one foot in front of the other. That was the only way that I was going to make it up those stairs. If I let my mind stray from concentrating on my footsteps, it began shrieking incoherently, Danger! Danger! Danger! Stop! Danger! Obviously, that was chatter that I needed to keep out of my head.

The situation wasn’t improved when I had to step over a pregnant woman and her husband resting on the stairs. I turned back to tell the boyfriend I couldn’t go any further, but the sight of the stairs behind him made my stomach flip. I hurried up the stairs as quickly as possible, keeping my eyes only on the stairs in front of me.
The crown has a tiny deck where you can admire the view from the windows in the crown. The view was, as expected, amazing, but I had trouble enjoying it as I was clinging to the interior beams in unbridled terror.

When it was time to descend, I requested that the boyfriend to go first, thinking his body would block the dizzying view downward. This worked until he ducked into a rest point to take photographs of the belly of the statue. Unwilling to spend one additional second on those stairs, I blazed on, not stopping until I was on the monument base again. My heart was pounding, and my legs were wobbling, but I was off those stairs and I was still in one piece.

The moral of the story is this: the trip to the Statue of Liberty’s crown might sound great, but it is assuredly not for the faint of heart.

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